Jocelyn YihComment

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRING SUMMER 2021 MEN'S COLLECTION

Jocelyn YihComment
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRING SUMMER 2021 MEN'S COLLECTION

Following the British Fashion Council’s announcement today that London Fashion Week will remain digital-only this February, it seems like little change has been brought to the new year. My mental tally on days since I’ve made a physical presence at shows adds on. And I type from the same spot on the sofa.

One of the things that we can appreciate is ever-flowing creativity from Sarah Burton and her team. And only a week prior to uploading these images to my drafts, I saw the instantly recognisable McQueen font blasted on the screens of Piccadilly Circus (advertising for ‘First Light’ - a Jonathan Glazer directed short featuring the same collection). My research also points to the fact that the brand featuring on the same landmark is no novelty, having commissioned to extend their support for the NHS.

Having been stationary on UK soil for the longest of my history, I feel a great connection to both videos. First light being shot along the Thames path, and the menswear collection video which appear to be shot somewhere along the Chalk Group (where I had the luxury of exploring last Summer here and here when no tier system was in place).

Aside from the obvious fact that this collection was designed during lockdown, the 3-line collection notes also highlights the fact that this collection was “made predominantly out of stock fabric: over-printed, over-dyed - renewed.” There’s also a repetition of descriptive words within the lookbook that summarise the collection, such as “viscose cady”, “khaki polyfaille” and the look with “integrated hand-draped bow and peplum detailing in contrast black microfaille“. My eyes are naturally drawn to the fin-like cut-out on the tailored suits of Look 20 (made of grey sharkskin mohair) and 22, both of which occupy the first 10 seconds of the collection video. Though the finishing Look 31 is as equally thought provoking as it is described: a look with a “trompe l’oeil” parka skirt featuring embroidery inspired by notebook drawings of the design studio.